Tardis Bag Strap

Welcome back to some more Dr. Who fun!  We made the bag part of the Tardis Bag last Tuesday, so today I'm going to show you how I made the Tardis Bag Strap.   The top of the strap was made using a quasi-tapestry crochet technique where I carried the yarn across the back of the piece.  This makes the wrong side Uh-huh-huh-huh-gleeee (that's 'really super ugly' to those of you who don't speak Jaime gibberish)!  So that's why we've got second piece to cover the ugliness up.  And it makes the strap stronger and less prone to stretch all out of shape.

This is my first attempt at charts.  I made my charts going from the top down (row numbers down the sides), but on my large strap charts I also numbered the stitches across the top. Please don't let this confuse you.   I'm not going to re-do them, since this is a free pattern, but I would love to know, was I supposed to do the chart from the bottom up?  I made mine go from top down, because my blog posts scroll from the top down, and I thought it would be inconvenient and more confusing if I made them go from the bottom up.  But now I don't know.

I made 3 different straps.  I made a big strap for the LCB version that looks exactly like the Tardis, and I made a thinner strap that looks a little less authentic, but is more appropriately sized for the smaller purse-sized bag in both a shoulder bag size and a longer crossbody size.  If you want, you can ditch the charts and just make a plain black strap for either of the bags, and I think they would still look really cool.

**IMPORTANT:  All charts are worked in single crochet.  Carry the yarn on the back of the piece, since we're going to cover all the loose threads up.  You can cut the white yarn between charts to keep the white from pulling weirdly on the piece from the back.  It's going to look wonky up close, so if you are working on the strap and think that it's turning out horrible, go get an iced tea, and take a break from it.  When you come back, look at it from across the room.  It will look much better.**

Tardis LCB Strap - front
approx 35" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

using Black ch 14
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (13 st)
R2-3: ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R4-32: work LCB CHART A (13 st)
R33-35: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R36-56: work LCB CHART B (13 st)
R57-59: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R60-82: work LCB CHART C (13 st)
R83-85: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

LCB CHART A

LCB CHART B

LCB CHART C

Tardis LCB Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 14

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (14 st)

R2-85: ch 1, sc in each st across (14 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Shoulder Strap- Front 

approx 35" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

using Black ch 6
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)
R2-5: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R6-31: work CHART A (5 st)
R32-36: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R37-57: work CHART B (5 st)
R58-62: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R63-77: work CHART C (5 st)
R78-82: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R83-95: work CHART D (5 st)
R96-100: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

CHART A

CHART B

CHART C

CHART D

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Shoulder Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 6

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)

R2-100: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Crossbody Strap - Front

approx 45" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors


using Black ch 6
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)
R2-30: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R31-51: work CHART A (5 st)
R52-56: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R57-77: work CHART B (5 st)
R78-82: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R83-97: work CHART C (5 st)
R98-102: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R103-115: work CHART D (5 st)
R116-145: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Crossbody Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 6

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)

R2-145: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Okay, so for those of you who are making the unlined button-closure versions, you are now done!  Yippee!  For the rest of you, you fabric-lining darlings, I will see you on Saturday!  Bring a lining fabric (I'm going to use white cotton!) and your knit pickers.  

xoxo

The Tardis Bag - A love story in 3 parts

My friend Kendra sent me the most wonderful picture a couple of weeks ago:

As a longtime Dr. Who fan, I totally freaked out.  She had turned the London Crochet Bag into a Tardis!  I emailed her and pretty much demanded that she tell me what she did so that I could make one myself (LOL!) and so that I could share the pattern with you!  And being the sweetheart that she is, she sent me her pattern.

I, of course, made one and loved it!  My only issue was that I wanted to be able to carry it as a purse, but the LCB (if you've made the bag you'll know) is kinda huge for every-day use.  So I've made a smaller version as well.  (Either one would make an excellent trick-or-treat bag...)

This is my version of Kendra's bag!

Only, I got it in my head that I wanted to line the bag, so I've given you the option of making it with a button, or with a magnetic snap closure.  Whew!  So, that's why this love story is broken into 3 parts.  Today I'm giving you the patterns for the Main Bag (Original LCB size - pattern by Kendra Harris, Purse Size with Button, and Purse Size with lining).  In the next post, I'll give you the pattern for the strap, and then in the last post I'll be doing the lining instructions (including some fun with the knit picker!).

 And, as the Tenth Doctor said (in Fear Her), “There’s a lot of things you need to get across this universe. Warp drive… wormhole refractors… You know the thing you need most of all? You need some yarn to hold.” **

**I may have mis-quoted here... It was really 'You need a hand to hold' but that didn't make my argument very well, did it?

Abbreviations used:
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
ch - chain
hdc - half-double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Tardis LCB 
pattern modification by Kendra Harris

Supplies:
Blue Worsted Weight Yarn ( I used Caron One Pound 100% acrylic in Royalty, but you could also use Red Heart Super Saver in Royal)
Size G hook
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in White and Black (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White and Black)

ch 61
R1-51: Follow normal pattern for the London Crochet Bag
R52: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch sp, (2 fpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 fpdc, hdc in each ch space across (60 st)
R53: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 bpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R54-61: Repeat R52-53 4 more times
R62: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R63: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R64: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 fpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R65: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 bpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R66-73:  Repeat R64-65 4 more times
R74: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R75: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R76: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R77: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R78: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R79: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (5 hdc, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (5 hdc, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R80:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R81: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R82:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R83:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, 34 hdc, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R84: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R85: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R86: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, change to black, 36 hdc, change to blue, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R87: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, change to black, 14 hdc, ch 8, skip 8 st, 14 hdc, change to blue, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R88: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, change to black, 14 hdc, 8 hdc in the ch space, 14 hdc, change to blue, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R89: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, 36 hdc, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R90: ch 1, 60 hdc (60 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Sew side seams together following the instructions for the original London Crochet Bag.

Make Button following original London Crochet Bag instructions using white yarn.  Using buttonhole as a guide, center and sew on button.

There was a lot of confusion with the original London Crochet Bag about Row 51.  I took pictures as I did R51 on this bag, so that you can see exactly what I'm talking about.  I'm left handed, so for you righties, imagine the stitches in the 3rd picture on the other side... :D

This is where we leave off on R50

ch 10 (actually this one is for the smaller sized bag, so it's a 5 ch, but you get the idea)

hdc across all stitches of R50...

And then more chain stitches on the other side!
Now you're all set for R52 with 61 stitches on your row!
(Or in the case of this picture, 41)

And now, for the smaller, Purse-Sized Tardis patterns!

The Purse-Sized Tardis Bag with Button...
It's bigger on the inside...

Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Button
Approx. size: 11" tall x 8 1/2" wide x 3" deep
Supplies:
Blue Worsted Weight Yarn ( I used Caron One Pound 100% acrylic in Royalty, which will make two purse sized bags from one skein.  It's a little 'slubby' but if you don't mind the lumps every once in a while, the price is right.  Otherwise, use a royal blue in Red Heart Super Saver.)
Size F hook
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in White and Black (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White and Black)

With Blue ch 41
R1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across (40 st)
R2-30: ch 1, hdc in each st across (40 st)
R31: sl st in next 5 st, ch 1, 30 hdc, ch 1, turn (you're going to skip the last 5 st of the row) (30 st)
R32: hdc in each st across (30 st)
R33-35: ch 1, hdc in each st across (30 st)
Fasten off.

R36: With new piece of yarn, ch 5, 30 hdc across all st of R35, ch 6 (41 st)
R37: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch, 2 hdc, 26 bpdc, 2 hdc, hdc in each ch (40 st)
R38: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R39: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R40: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R41: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R42: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R43: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R44: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R45: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R46: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R47: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R48: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R49: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R50: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R51: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R52: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R53: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R54: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R55: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (3 hdc, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (3 hdc, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R56: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R57: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R58: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (3 hdc, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (3 hdc, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R59: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R60: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R61: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R62: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R63: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 10 hdc, ch 4, skip 4 st, 10 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R64: ch 1, 7 hdc, 11 fpdc, 4 hdc in ch space, 11 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R65: ch 1, hdc across all st (40 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Using the original London Crochet Bag as a guideline, sew the sides together.


Button
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White)
Size F crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors

R1: 7 sc in magic loop, pull loop tight, sl st to first st to close round (7 st)
R2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first st to close round (14 st)
R3: ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (21 st)
R4: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first st to close round (21 st)
R5: ch 1, (sc next 2 st tog, sc) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (14 st)
R6: ch 1, (sc next 2 st tog) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (7 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Using buttonhole as a guide, center and sew on button.

Purse-Sized Tardis Bag, ready to be sewn together and lined!!

Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Lining
Follow all of the instructions from the Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Button, but replace R63-64 with these instructions:
R63: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 24 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R64: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)

Oh yeah, and don't make the button if you're making this bag, we'll be doing something else...


Whew! Come back on Thursday and we'll make the Police Public Call Box Strap!  It's gonna be awesome!!

And, for all of you following at home, the Captcha is off for the next week!  Let's see what happens!  Fun experiments for everyone!  And double Dynamo points for a heads-up if something spammy or offensive gets posted.  I'll pull it as soon as I see it.

xoxo

Sunday School

Welcome back to Sunday School!  I've been scouring the web to find the coolest tips and tricks to share with you!

I really liked this article from the Leisure Arts website about using everyday items that you have around the house in your crochet tool bag.  The use-what-you've-got sensibility of these tips really appealed to me:
http://leisureartsblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/10-creative-crochet-tips.html

This article from Craft Stylish about how to edge fabric with crochet was eye-opening!  Using your sewing machine to blanket-stitch or zig-zag the edge as the foundation row is genius!  It looks a little fussy for large blankets, but I have been searching for an easy and clean way to edge handkerchiefs and I think this technique would be perfect.
http://www.craftstylish.com/item/26040/how-to-edge-a-napkin-or-anything-else-with-crochet

Cute visual tute on the magic loop!  I dig the bluebirds!
http://pinterest.com/pin/228909593531157076/

Okay, this week I've got a project for you that I've been working on with my friend Kendra!  It uses front-post double-crochet and back-post double-crochet stitches.  If you aren't familiar with those stitches, now would be a great time to try them out!  I really liked the picture tutorial in the first link.
http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-front-post-double-crochet-fpdc/
http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-back-post-double-crochet-bpdc/

**Want a hint about this week's project?**

Okay, some of you might have noticed that I consolidated some pages on the site this week.  When I redesigned the Free Pattern Page to make it easier to navigate, the Theme Week Pattern Page became redundant.  Also, I folded the Crochet DIY projects into the free patterns.  There weren't a lot of them, and it no longer made sense to have a separate page for them either.

That freed up some space for me to add a Sample Shop!  So, from time to time, when I have design samples left after photographing my projects, I will be adding them to the store.  I will let you know at the end of pattern posts if there are any samples available for purchase.

One more item of business, before I go: Captcha.  How annoying is it to you?  I saw on my friend Rosamargarita's blog that she moderates her comments instead of requiring people to fill out the captcha.  Honestly, it hadn't occurred to me that people might find it irritating before.  So, now's your time to speak up!  I'm starting to get some spam-like non-crochet-promoting comments (I am NOT talking about the amazing links that you guys leave me so that I can go check out your blog/etsy shop/or other fun crochet link.  I LOVE those links and would be sad if you stopped leaving them!).  The comments that I'm talking about are not from my Dyanmos, and they're not interested in adding to the fun conversations on the site.  This is making me realize that I may need to begin moderating comments anyway.  Anyone else been through this and have advice for me?  I'd love to have another opinion or two (or thirty!).

xoxo

Make A Hat Day!

Today is Make A Hat Day!  I thought it would be super cool to make a beret-style hat.  I've made a lot of beanies in my day, and I've made some fun sun-hat type hats, but I had never crocheted a beret before now.  I don't know what I was thinking.  Okay, that was a lie, I will tell you exactly what I was thinking.  I assumed that it would be simple to do and I could come up with something fun and cute and fast and put up a fun free pattern that you could do in a couple of hours.

You know what they say about the word assume...

This has been a complete labor of love.  It wasn't as simple as 'it goes out for a while, and then it comes back in'.  I had to stagger the decreases because lining up the decreases created a hat with points (think college graduation professor hats... Not the look I was going for...).   The first hat was based on a hat I had sewn a few years ago, but somehow translating the pattern into crochet caused  the dimensions became child-sized (so Mims looked cute in it, but it made my head look like a mushroom... Quite unattractive, and also not a look that I was aiming for...).  Finally I made the perfect beret!  Flattering!  Perfect shaping!  Fairly simple pattern that could be completed in a day (if you spent the whole day crocheting... But I took it as a victory anyway!)!  I was thrilled.  I had made it out of acrylic as my 'practice' beret, but when I went to make the 'real' version (ah, pattern testing!) I decided to make it out of wool.  Gorgeous autumnal-colored wool, something that would be warm and beautiful and wouldn't get pills before winter got here... I was so in love with the idea of my warm cozy beret, that I didn't even think that the wool worsted weight yarn might not necessarily work as a  substitution for the acrylic worsted weight yarn.  My acrylic yarn had been a slightly smaller worsted, and the wool was on the larger side of worsted.  I didn't notice until I was nearly done and thought, "Gee, this looks bigger than I remember..."  Yeah, the diameter was almost 3 inches larger!!!  Yikes!  So, I went back to the drawing board...

I refused to give up on my perfect beret, so this time I used the wool to design my perfect (and not gigantic) beret.  **Side note about hat design (skip to the next set of double asterisks if you don't care about the whys and only want the hows. I promise I won't judge you for wanting to get to the point!):  When you're designing a hat, you have to work with something called 'negative ease'.  Some of you who are sewers (seamstresses?) should be familiar with adding ease to a pattern to adjust the fit, but for those of you who don't know what I'm talking about, ease is the difference between the measurements of your body and the measurements of the finished garment.  In sewing, you want to add a few inches to that body number so that your finished garment will allow you to sit down without ripping out the seams.

Now, crochet is cool, because it stretches.  We use that stretching ability to our benefit when we make crochet hats, which is where that negative ease comes in.  We use negative ease, taking an inch (or inch and a half) away from the head measurement so that we don't have a saggy, ill-fitting hat.   Who ever thought that going negative could be such a positive?!! So, even though this hat has a finished band of 20.5 inches, it will stretch to fit my head and it won't give me a headache.  Plus, it won't fall down over my eyes (and become the dreaded 'too slouchy'!) if I wear it for more that 10 minutes, because we're using negative ease. Okay, back to what I was saying before...**

Since I had four different patterns to show me what I shouldn't do, this last pattern (lucky number 5!) actually came together pretty quickly.  It really came down to measurements and math, which are much easier to work with when you've already worked out the aesthetics part of the design.  It is my absolutely favorite hat that I've ever made. I am sure that there will be other hats in my future, but this one was so hard fought that it will always be special to me.

Dynamite Beret!
finished hat diameter across top is approximately 12"
Supplies:
210 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used Paton Classic Wool - worsted 100% wool yarn in Jade Heather)
Size G crochet hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
Approximately 30 inches of 7/8" grosgrain ribbon in coordinating color (I used black)

R1: in a magic loop, 8 hdc, pull loop snug and sl st to first hdc to close round (8 st)
R2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc to close round (16 st)
R3: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (24 st)
R4: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 2 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (32 st)
R5: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 3 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (40 st)
R6: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 4 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (48 st)
R7: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 5 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (56 st)
R8: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 6 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (64 st)
R9: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 7 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (72 st)
R10: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 8 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (80 st)
R11: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 9 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (88 st)
R12: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 10 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (96 st)
R13: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 11 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (104 st)
R14: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 12 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (112 st)
R15: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 13 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (120 st)
R16: ch 1, (2 hdc in next st, 14 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (128 st)
R17: ch 1, 7 hdc, (hdc next 2 st tog, 14 hdc) 7 times, hdc next 2 st tog, 7 hdc, sl st to first hdc to close round (120 st)
R18: ch 1, (hdc next 2 st tog, 13 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (112 st)
R19: ch 1, 6 hdc, (hdc next 2 st tog, 12 hdc) 7 times, hdc next 2 st tog, 6 hdc, sl st to first hdc to close round (104 st)
R20: ch 1, (hdc next 2 st tog, 11 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (96 st)
R21: ch 1, 5 hdc, (hdc next 2 st tog, 10 hdc) 7 times, hdc next 2 st tog, 5 hdc, sl st to first hdc to close round (88 st)
R22: ch 1, (hdc next 2 st tog, 9 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (80 st)
R23: ch 1, 4 hdc, (hdc next 2 st tog, 8 hdc) 7 times, hdc next 2 st tog, 4 hdc, sl st to first hdc to close round (72 st)
R24: ch 1, (hdc next 2 st tog, 7 hdc) 8 times, sl st to first hdc to close round (64 st)
R25: ch 1, ch 1, 3 hdc, (hdc next 2 st tog, 6 hdc) 7 times, hdc next 2 st tog, 3 hdc, sl st to first hdc to close round (56 st)
R26: ch 3, skip st, (dc in next st, ch 1, skip st) 27 times, sl st to 2nd beginning ch to close round (56 st)
R27: ch 1, 2 sc in each ch space around, sl st to first sc to close round (56 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Weave the grosgrain ribbon between the dc bars of R26.  Tie the ends in a cute bow!  Trim ribbon ends at an angle and seal cut ends with a lit match to keep them from fraying.

**A note about yarns:  I used 4 different colors of the same brand of wool yarn.  Each one was labeled 210 yards.  The first hat had about 10 yards of yarn left over when I finished.  The second and third skeins had approximately 4 yards of yarn left over.  The fourth skein was short about 4 yards, which necessitated ripping the hat out about 10 rows and switching to an F hook to re-crochet the hat in a smaller gauge.

So, what does this mean?  First off, it means that when label bands say 'approx' in front of the yardage number they really mean it!!  Second, if you KNOW that you're a 'loose' crocheter, I would totally switch to an F hook before you start, so that your hat doesn't become too large, and you won't run out of yarn before you finish.  Third, if you're one of the unlucky ones with the 'short' skein, it completely sucks, but rip it back to where you sl st the end of R16 together, swap your G hook for and F hook, and complete the hat with the smaller hook.  It won't be noticeably smaller, and you should have enough yarn to complete the project. **

Or, if you don't want to make it yourself, you can buy one at my new shop.  Grab one quickly if you want it, because I only have 3 available.

xoxo

The Plague

Howdy Dynamos!  The Dynamite Family is sick.

Every year, when we send Mims off to school (she's been going to preschool since she was 2) she comes back with 'the plague'.  Okay, not the real plague, but a cold so terrible we think that we are all going to die...

The first year we caught the plague we spent all of September and October passing the cold around between the three of us.  It finally ended with my parents having to take Mims trick-or-treating, because Jake and I couldn't get off the couch...

The second year that we caught the plague, it lasted from September through January of the next year.  It involved strep throat, multiple bouts of bronchitis and a conjunctivitis so bad that we referred to it as 'Vampire Eyes'.  This time we were not able to keep it contained to just the three of us, my entire family got sick, and we had to cancel all of our Christmas plans.  We finally celebrated with the whole family a full month after the holiday...

Last year we got lucky and only spent the first six weeks of school sick.  It felt like we'd been reprieved.  Mims did end up getting a stomach flu, which was sad, but she got over it fairly quickly.

I really, really wanted to avoid the plague this year.  Still, we prepared ourselves for the worst.  I mean, if we got the plague from the private preschool, just think of the cooties at public school!  I had read an article about how to keep your kids from getting sick, so I instituted some new family rules:

1. Mims has to change her clothes and take a bath as soon as she gets home from school, so that none of the plague germs get spread around the house.
2. Everyone washes their hands before we eat anything. In a pinch, antibacterial hand gel also counts  (Okay, we should be doing this anyway, but I'm not as vigilant about snacking as I should be)

I really, really wanted to avoid the plague this year. Mims and I are both fighting through the beginnings of a cold, but I'm hoping that a day of resting will get us back on track and it won't turn into full-blown plague.

Luckily, I do some of my posts in advance, so I get to take tomorrow off, and you guys still get an awesome new pattern!  In fact, here's a preview:

Fun, right?  It's for Make A Hat Day!  See you tomorrow!

xoxo

PS - Oh, hey, after re-reading this, I need to make sure to tell you that we DID NOT send Mimsey to school sick at any point.  We kept her home, to minimize the spread of our own germs.  I don't know why, but suddenly I was overcome with worry that you'd think I was an irresponsible parent...  Aww, it must mean I love you guys!
xo J

Lady Luck

I found some fun dice beads that I thought would make awesome rings.  I think they're really fun, and a playful twist on the chunky ring trend that's so hot right now.  You're gonna need these lucky beauties, since you never know when a spontaneous road-trip will end in Vegas...

Lady Luck Cocktail Ring

Fits a ring size 7, but will stretch for larger sizes
Supplies:
7 plastic dice beads
.5mm Silver elastic beading cord
Size D crochet hook
Scissors

Load all of your beads onto the elastic.

R1: ch 4, sl st to first ch to close round.
R2: slide a bead up and sc through the center of the ch 4 circle.  Repeat until all of the beads have been used. Sl st into the first sc to close the round. (7 st)
R2: chain 20 (add more stitches for a larger ring, leave some off for a smaller ring).  Sl st to the 2nd ch of R1 (or whatever stitch is on the opposite side of R1 from the chain).  Fasten off.  Weave in ends (which there isn't much space to do, I just tied it in a surgeons knot and used my crochet hook to weave it between the beads a little.) Snip off any extra elastic.

And don't forget to send me a postcard from Vegas!

xoxo

9/14/12 edit: You know, it has occurred to me that these would also be good for a Yahtzee party... you know, if Vegas wasn't your thing... :D
xo J

Bathrobe Bottle Cover

I got the loveliest email question the other day from Carole with a request for a bottle cover that looked like a bathrobe.  She sent a picture and everything, and it was just too cute to pass up.  So, for any of you out there that might like one too, this is my version of the Bottle Bathrobe:

My version of a Bottle Bathrobe

This is the picture that Carole sent me!

Bathrobe Bottle Cover
Finished Measurements of Robe: 4 1/2" at tallest point, and 8 1/4" wide
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Handicrafter 100% cotton worsted weight yarn in Robin's Egg.  I like to use cotton for these bottle covers because it's a high-use item that is bound to get spilled on, grubbed up, and -like I just watched my grandma do recently- used to  'mop up' the wet sink counter.  Cotton looks good after repeated washings, doesn't pill and makes it easy for 91 year-old grandmas to keep the bathroom lookin' good... I kinda want to cry... LOL!!!)
Size G crochet hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
Bath & Body Works Foaming Hand Soap (or whatever bottle you've got, the robe is adjustable)

Robe:
ch 11
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (10 st)
R2: ch 1, sc in each st across (10 st)
R3: ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across (11 st)
R4: ch 1, sc in each st across (11 st)
R5: ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across (12 st)
R6: ch 1, sc in each st across (12 st)
R7: ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across (13 st)
R8: ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R9: ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across (14 st)
R10: ch 1, sc in each st across (14 st)
R11: ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across (15 st)
R12-24: ch 1, sc in each st across (15 st)
R25: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in each st across (14 st)
R26: ch 1, sc in each st across (14 st)
R27: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in each st across (13 st)
R28: ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R29: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in each st across (12 st)
R30: ch 1, sc in each st across (12 st)
R31: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in each st across (11 st)
R32: ch 1, sc in each st across (11 st)
R33: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in each st across (10 st)
R34: ch 1, sc in each st across (10 st)
R35: ch 1, (turn piece so that you're now crocheting across the curved side edge, this is going to become the collar.  Use the rows as a guide for stitch placement: one row = one stitch) 10 sc, 14 hdc, 10 sc (34 st)
R36: ch 1, 10 sc, 14 hdc, 10 sc (34 sc)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finish the piece by doing one row of sc across the other side to make the bottom edge of the robe look even and neat.

Belt:
ch 45
R1: sc in the back loop of the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the back loop of each ch across (44 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Pockets:
(make 2)
ch 4
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (3 st)
R2-3: sc in each st across (3 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

The collar of the robe should just naturally fold back on itself, but if it doesn't you can adjust it as you put it around your bottle. Overlap the short edges of the robe and use the belt to hold it in place.  I put the robe and the belt on the bottle before I sewed the pockets in place.  That way I knew I was pinning them in an area that wouldn't be hidden by an overlapping flap, and that they wouldn't be placed too far out on the sides to show.  Definitely pin them in place while the robe is on the bottle, then you can take the robe off and tack them into place.  I think it would be very cute to add a little tissue sticking out of one of the pockets... Hmm, I may have to go do that right now... LOL!!!

I was talking with my dad about this project, and we got to laughing about how cute this would be if it was wrapped around a hand sanitizing gel bottle.  That and a box of tissues would make a great gift for someone who has a cold.  My mom (who's an elementary school teacher) then chimed in that it would be funny for on her desk too.  She said that she could threaten her kids, "You guys better use this hand sanitizer after you cough or sneeze or I'm going to get sick and have to stay home wearing one of these robes!"  Ah, my parents crack me up!

xoxo