T-shirt Cardigan - Totally worth the math!

I saw the cutest thing on Pinterest the other day.  It was a t-shirt that had been re-fashioned into a sweater.  Of course, I wanted one!  I mean, tshirt + crochet = awesomeness! 

It was a cute idea, but I wanted to do my own version.  I had a 3/4 length sleeve t-shirt that was just begging to get re-made into something cool!  

If you'd like to make one too, here's what you're going to need:

T-shirt Cardigan (or tCardi as it is known in my Nickelodeon-watching house...)

Supplies:

T-shirt (this is an awesome recycle/upcycle project! Use what you've got!)

Good Scissors (the fabric ones you won't let your kids play with)

Sock yarn (You'll need one skein of a sock yarn that is washing machine-compatible with your shirt... So don't use a beautiful wool/cashmere blend that has to be hand washed, unless you only hand wash your t-shirts.  I used a wool acrylic blend that I can machine wash and dry.)

Size D crochet hook

Buttons that make you happy (It made me happy to use 5 cheapies, but you could get as vintage and fancy as you like... Once again, take your washing preferences into consideration before choosing un-washable buttons...)

A knit picker 

Small tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing on buttons

Pardon the wrinkles in the shirt!  It didn't want to cooperate when I was trying to shoot it's picture. Find the center of your shirt, and slice it open!  Make it as straight and perfect as possible.  

Now you need a swatch so that you can get your gauge for your Cardi button bands.  To make swatching more fun, you can make it big enough to be a pocket!

Cardi Swatch/Pocket
ch 33
R1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, ch 3, turn (31 st)
R2-20: skip first st, dc in each st across, ch 3, turn (31 st)
R21: 2 dc in first st, skip 2 st, sl st in next st, *skip 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 st, sl st in next st* 4 times, skip 2 st, 3 dc in last st (31 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends (or save them for sewing the pocket on later...)

Now you can measure your pocket (swatch!) to find your stitch gauge.  Measure across the center to get the most accurate count.   My gauge was 6 stitches per inch.  When you get your number, write it down.

Now you're going to use that number to figure out how many stitches you need for the front of your sweater!  The cut edges down the center of my t-shirt were 19 inches long.  I multiplied that number by my stitch gauge number and got 114 stitches.  I used a shell-stitch edging that I know is a 6 stitch repeat plus an extra stitch so I added an extra stitch to make it 115 total stitches.

You're going to have to use your own gauge info to get your magic front edging number.
I crocheted ________ stitches per inch.
The cut edge of my shirt is __________ inches long.

Stitches per inch x Shirt edge length = ___________ stitches you're going to need so that your shirt edge doesn't pull in weird or ruffle!

If you want to add an edging, adjust the stitches so that your stitch pattern will come out even.  For a shell edging you will want to divide your Stitches-You-Need-Along-The-Edge number by a repeat of 6 stitches and adjust it up or down (including the plus 1 --and only one-- extra stitch) so that your pattern comes out even.

Cardi Button Bands (Front Edgings)
Make left side plain, make right side with buttonhole row
R1: Using the knitpicker, crochet your custom number of stitches onto the front edge of your shirt.
R2: ch 3, skip the first st, dc in each knit-picked stitch, ch 1, turn
R3: skip the first st, sc in each st across, ch 3, turn
R4: skip the first st, dc in each st across, ch 3, turn
R5: (optional shell edge) 2 st in first st, *skip 2 st, sl st in next st, skip 2 st, 5 dc in next st* to last 6 st, skip 2 st, sl st in next st, skip 2 st, 3 dc in last st.
Fasten off.

For the Buttonhole Row: 
Women's clothing buttons on the left side, so keep this in mind when you are putting the front edgings onto your Cardi.  

Now that you know how many stitches you need along the front edges, you're going to have to do just a little bit more math, if you want your buttonholes to be even... Which you totally do...

My buttons were 3/8" so I needed a 3 stitch gap to make my buttonholes.  (3 stitch = 1/2" - crochet is stretchy, and this way the buttons will still stay in place even if the buttonholes get a little stretched out.)

3 stitches x 5 buttons = 15 stitches...

I wanted my first and last buttons to be 1" from the top and bottom edges of my cardi, so that was 6 stitches from each edge...

15 buttonhole stitches + 12 top/bottom edge stitches = 27 stitches...

I used 5 buttons, so that gives me 4 (FOUR!!!) spaces between buttonholes...

115 - 27 stitches = 88 stitches divided by 4 (FOUR!) spaces = 22 stitches!

So here's what my buttonhole row looked like:

R3: skip first st, 5 sc, *ch 3, skip next 3 st, 22 sc* 4 times, ch 3, skip next 3 st, 6 sc, ch 3, turn (115 st)
R4: skip first st, 5 dc, *3 dc in ch space, 22 dc* 4 times, 3 dc in ch space, 6 dc, ch 3 turn (115 st)

Supplies!  Notice my awesome new PINK knit picker!

Use the knit picker to crochet the stitches onto the cut edge of your tshirt. Make sure that the loops are on the front of the shirt, and that the 'dashed line' is on the inside edge!  You don't want the t-shirt edge to show when you're done...

Get the knit picker ready...

Push it through the fabric.  It goes through the t-shirt material really easily!

Put your yarn though the hooked end, and make sure that the latch is closed...

Then, gently pull it through.  Sock yarn works really well with this technique!

This is what your knit-picked edge should look like...

Use the button holes as a guide for where to sew your buttons on!   Sew on the pocket!  I used the knit picker, but you could just use a tapestry needle.  I put my pocket on the left side, since I'm left-handed, but you could put yours on the right.  Or make two and put them on both sides!

Sorry about the weird picture. I forgot to take one earlier, and we were running out of light...  This is the best one we got. LOL!!!!

My awesome T-shirt Cardigan!  I loved it when it was a t-shirt, and I love it even more as a sweater.  I wore it all day, and it was a nice light-weight option to go over the top of my tank-top.
The math looks really complicated, but I promise that it isn't.  Give it a try!  If the shell-edging bogs you down too much, you don't have to use it.  It will look awesome without it.   Just leave R5 off of the button bands.  Done! Easy!

xoxo

Pencil Case - Part 3

Today we're finishing up the Pencil Case!  If you missed the first 2 parts, you can check them out:

Part One - Where Jaime crochets an outer shell for the case...

Part Two - Where Jaime does a sewing tutorial with thread you can't see, so she has to draw it in...

So, on to Part Three - Where Jaime shows you some stuff you might not have seen before... And hopefully finishes the Pencil Case... Finally!

The Supplies we're using today are:

12 1/2" zipper (or longer, since zippers don't come in that size)

Yarn needle

Scissors

Matches

Sewing pins

The cotton yarn you used to make the crocheted outer shell in Part One 

Knit Picker

As you Dynamos may already know, I can never find a 'right-sized' zipper.  I haven't put a un-customized (that's not a real word, btw) zipper into any of my crocheted projects.  I cut and stitch and melt all of them.  I was lamenting this sad fact to Jake a while back, and he suggested I find someplace that I could purchase big lengths of zipper, if I was just going to customize it anyway.  Brilliant!  

Did you know that you can buy a big, fat roll of zipper?!  Okay, smarty pants, well the rest of us didn't know about it!  I got mine online at Joann.com.  They have two kinds of the Make-A-Zipper,  regular and heavy duty.  I got heavy duty, since most of my projects are meant to be used a lot.  So, lucky for me, I was all ready to go when I needed a 12 1/2" zipper!

I was able to zip the zipper pulls along, up the spool of zipper, until I got the length that I needed.  Then I just cut it off.  So easy peasy!  There are instructions on the package on how to sew the ends closed (in fact, they HIGHLY recommend sewing the ends before cutting the zipper), but we fly without a net around here. Usually, I elaborately stitch the ends closed with sewing thread, but this time I knew that I would be stitching across the ends when I sewed the zipper in, so I just used a piece of yarn and sewed it once around the zipper teeth.  Even more simply, I tied the ends in a knot on the back of the zipper.  Seriously, Dynamos, it was freeing to work so loosely!

I used a match to (very slightly) melt the cut ends of the zipper fabric.  This will keep it from fraying.  I don't know how necessary this step is for this particular project (the ends won't show, get rubbed or abused or handled in any way), but on the off chance that I would ever need to wash the case, I did it for good measure.

Putting a zipper in, without wanting to throw the project across the room, requires some prep work.  First, we're going to pin the zipper in place.  Grab your pencil case with liner and your pins!

Decide if your case has a front and back (if you used one solid color, this doesn't matter, but two or more colors will have a slight jog in the stitches on one side, thus necessitating a banishing to 'back' status).  I put my zipper in so that it would unzip from left to right.  You can, of course, put your zipper in however you like.

Start by sliding the end of your zipper about a half inch in between the liner and the crocheted outer shell. Pin it in place (I put the pin in sideways, across the zipper).  Unzip the zipper to make it easier to see what you're doing.  Slide the zipper fabric in between the liner and the crochet, slowly working around the edge of the flap.  Pin it in place as you go.

When you get to the corner of the flap, you're going to want to fold the zipper fabric over to miter the corner.  Make sure you catch both layers of zipper fabric when you pin it between the liner and the crochet flap so it doesn't spring apart.

Make your way around the case, sliding the extra length of zipper end in between the liner and crochet outer shell when you get to the other side.  Pin, pin, pin everything. Once you've got it pinned in place you can check it by (very carefully!) zipping it closed.  If the zipper pulls the fabric weird, or in some way aggravates you, NOW is the time to adjust it.   Also, check to make sure that the liner fabric and crocheted fabric are spaced evenly (maybe 1/8th inch?) from the zipper teeth.  Go around and adjust the pins until you are thrilled with how it looks, and you're sure the zipper pull won't get caught on too-close fabric.

Now, get out your Knit Picker and yarn, 'cause we're going to crochet it all together! 

If you didn't see my previous Knit Picker project (the Simple Ruffle-Butt Onesie) I would strongly encourage you to go and look at the step-by-step pictures of the knit picker in action.  It's okay, open it up in a new tab and read through the instructions on how the tool works, we'll wait for you  because we are covering so much info today that this next part is bare bones, baby!  Okay, not bare-bare bones, but it will be really confusing if you don't know how to make it work.  If you've used one before, or you're familliar with the latch-hook mechanism as it pertains to this application, then you're ready for this next part! 

This project is harder than the onesie, since you're going to have to go through multiple layers of fabric.  I found it was easier to get through the layers of liner, then go through the zipper fabric, and come out in a crocheted stitch.

The good part is that you don't have to mark your stitch guide, just use the crochet stitches on the flap as a guide.  Your knit picker stitches will be evenly spaced if you go through each crocheted stitch across the top of the flap.  Down the sides of the flap I used the rows as a guideline, but I just eyeballed the spacing.  The stitches don't show on the outside of the case, so it's hard to make a mistake on the side spacing.

Pulling the (much thicker than the yarn we used for the onesie) cotton yarn through all those layers of fabric is not easy.  Once you've done a few stitches you'll get the hang of it, and you'll know how hard you need to pull to get it to work.  

I started in the center of the back, since I figured that was a spot that was least likely to show, and wouldn't have much tension placed on it in the zipping/unzipping process.   

That reminds me, make sure that you really pay attention when you get to the bottom of the flap, as you go across from one side to the other, put a stitch on each side of the zipper teeth.  One on one side, go across and one on the other side.  This will really secure the zipper in place.

Once you've gone around the case, pull the last loop out just a little extra.

Come in from the outside, so that you can pull the loop through.  This will make it really easy to weave the end in when you're finished.

Once you've gotten the loop through, pull it out really long.  You may need to grab a crochet hook for this part.  **In fact, if at any point you are having trouble pulling a loop out far enough for it to 'chain' to the other stitches, use a crochet hook.  You will feel like you're going to break your knit picker if you pull very hard, and it's just not worth the sick feeling in your stomach if you've got your tool kit nearby.  The knit picker is super sturdy, and it shouldn't break, btw. I'm just sayin' why take the risk if it makes you nervous?**

Fasten off and weave in the ends, 'cause you are done, baby!!!

Oh yeah!  Inside!!  And now Outside!!!

I know I say this about every project, but I really am so happy with how it turned out.  I have made a few more that need to get the zippers put in, but I'll share those with you when they're done (and I don't have anything else to talk about that day...).

In the meantime, I thought I'd share this video.  This is the one that my friend Eliz sent me that really kicked off my knit picker love.  If you'd like more info you can click HERE and it will take you to TECHknitting, who pioneered this technique.  (And I know that in-blog videos are annoying, but pop it open to full-screen because this one is really good and well worth watching.).

xoxo

Pencil Case - Part 2

Okay, so when I started making this pencil case, honestly it didn't seem like that much work.  But, as I've been putting this sewn liner tutorial together, I realized that I'm going to have to break this project into three parts.  The lining instructions are so flippin' image heavy that it would just be cruel to give you this and the Make-A-Zipper/Knit Picker all at once.  So, today we're making the lining the pencil case!  Ooh, so very exciting!  :D

**This is my first full-on sewing tutorial.  It's not hard, but there are quite a few steps.**

Pencil Case Lining
Supplies:
Two 20" x 5.5" strips of fabric that coordinates with your crocheted outer shell (a single fat quarter would make both pieces!)
Sewing thread that coordinates with your fabric
Straight pins
Scissors
Ruler

Cut your fabric into 20" x 5.5" strips.  You need two.  The aqua is going to be the outside of my lining, and the print is going to be the inside. That way the crazy bright print will look awesome on the inside of the pencil case, and the aqua won't show through the crochet outer shell.  Win!

Pin your fabric strips right sides together.  Put one pin in the center of each short end, and a pin on each side 3 1/4" in from each end (You will have 6 pins all together).   The pins on the side are your guide for the first step.  You're going to sew the ends closed, and they're going to become the flap lining.  Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew from one pin up to the corner, turn, sew across short end, turn and sew down to the other pin.  Repeat on the other end.    Do Not Sew The Long Sides Closed.  

Once you've got both ends sewn together, clip across the corners (be careful not to snip the stitches).  Okay, this is where my sewing tute inexperience is showing.  The white stitching is crazy hard to see on the fabric.  I drew in the stitches in the pic below to make it easier to see what I'm talking about...

Now we're going to make the bag part of the liner.  Open up the two layers of fabric by sliding your hand between them.  (Ooh, did you notice I was wearing my awesome Surfer Girl bracelet?) Now turn your hand sideways, like a knife, and let the fabric 'tube' open up.  Now you can lay it down, with the print fabric on one side, and the non-print fabric on the other side of your flap sections...

Make sure you match your flap seams.  This way your lining will line up and look neat. 

Match the seams!

Pin the 'inner layer' (print!) together.  You don't need to use a lot of pins, we just want to keep it from sliding around while you sew.  **Don't worry about pinning the other (outer, non-print fabric) side right now.  The extra pins will just foul you up at this point...**

I wrote on the picture, since once again, my white thread didn't show up well.  When you start your side seams, you will want to start just a smidgen past the end of the flap seam.  This will help keep the side of the case from getting bunched and wonky.  Sew both sides with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Now, flip your flap pieces the other way and pin the other, non-print side.  Sew one of the side seams.  On the last side seam, leave a 2 inch gap in the seam.  We need that opening to turn the liner when we're done, so Seriously!! Make Sure You Leave A Gap!

The pencil case has a flat bottom.  We're going to give the liner a flat bottom as well!   Open up the corners and flatten them the other way to create triangle points.  Center the side seam and pin in place.  Do this for all 4 lower corners. (Don't do this to the flap corners.)

The bottom of the case is 1 1/4 inches across.  Using your ruler, find the spot where the triangle measures 1 1/4" across.  Move your pin to that line, or use disappearing ink to mark the line.  That's where you sew the corner seam.  Mark and sew all 4 lower corners.

Once you've sewn all your corner seams, snip the excess triangle fabric off.  This will help keep the liner corners from becoming bulky and lumpy.

This is what your liner should look like at this point:

Turn it right side out using the gap we left earlier.  I had the best luck pulling the flaps through first, and then using a chopstick to really poke at the corners of the flaps (to make them nice and sharp!).  Then once I was happy with how the flaps looked, I went ahead an finished turning the liner right side out.

Now, this is what your liner should look like:

The gap is easy to sew up.  If anyone was ever going to see it, I would have stitched it beautifully and invisibly by hand.  Since this is going inside a crocheted cover, I just zig zagged it to keep it from unraveling.  No one is ever going to see it, so make it easy on yourself.

The secret, I have discovered, between sewn items looking Handcrafted versus Homemade (do you get the distinction?) is Ironing!!! Iron the heck out of those flap parts.  The rest of the bag it doesn't matter as much, since it's not really going to be seen (and who would know if the inside had been ironed or not?), but those flap parts need to be flat and beautiful before we move on.

At this point you can put your liner into the crochet pencil case shell.   I pinned the corners of the flaps together to help hold it in place as I smoothed the liner inside the lower (bag) section.  This is a good place to stop, take a break, get an ice-blended something to drink and relax.  I'll show you what that crazy roll of zipper is, and how to use the Knit Picker to put it and the liner in on Tuesday... Click HERE for Part 3...

xoxo

p.s. If you missed Part One - The chapter where Jaime gives you the pattern to make the crocheted part of this project - you can find it HERE! ;D

Getting Ready for School

We are in a countdown around our house.  Mims has just a little less than 3 weeks before she heads off to Kindergarten.  I've been gathering school supplies over the last couple of months as I find things on sale, so we're pretty set as far as that goes.  My gut instinct is to hoard school supplies, since crayons are so cheap this time of year (and so expensive all the rest of the year!).  Aaaand, it the best time of year to pick up pencil cases.

What?!  You don't have an absurd number of pencil cases at your house?  I'm the only one?!  I use them for everything.  I love them!  I use pencil cases for carrying small projects.  I use them instead of a tool case for carrying my crochet supplies.  I have one that holds all my watercolor brushes.  I use one to carry my art pens. I keep my beads in a hard plastic pencil case.  In fact, I keep my current bead projects in individual pencil cases, so that I can have the tools, and beads all in one place (I usually put a washcloth in first, so the beads don't roll around as much).  I flippin' adore pencil cases!

My love of pencil cases started when I was in college.  I was a tutor for a college success class, and I insisted that my students all had to have their pencil cases in order.  There was a whole checklist that they followed:  Erasable pens, a multi-color 'clicker' pen, Post-It notes and flags, index cards, $3 (two $1 bills and four quarters).  I owe all of my own college success to a well organized pencil case, and excellent note-taking skills.

So it will come as no surprise that recently I have fallen in love with a new shape of pencil pouch.  I picked one up for $5 (on sale) and just adore it.  I've been using it to keep all my embroidery floss  together for my miniature crochet.  It's a perfect size for a small pair of scissors, my hooks and 'little extras' to go with whatever project I'm working on.  I couldn't rationalize spending another $30 to get a boatload of them to use as a crochet organizational system, but I had a bunch of worsted weight cotton yarn, and some fabric just laying around (see, I need an organizational system!) and decided to make some of my own!

Today I'm going to share the pattern for the crocheted outer shell of the pencil case!

Pencil Case
Supplies
100% cotton worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Handicrafter in Robin's Egg and White)
Size G hook
Yarn needle

Using Robin's Egg yarn, ch 14
R1: hdc in the back of the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the back of each ch across (12 st)
R2: ch 2, hdc in each st across (12 st)
R3: ch 2, hdc in each st across (12 st)
R4: ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each st across, 4 hdc across the short side, 12 hdc in the back loops of the foundation chain, 4 hdc across the other short side, sl st to first hdc to close round (32 st)
R5-10: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc to close round (32 st)
R11: ch 2, hdc in each st around, change to White, sl st to first hdc to close round (32 st)
R12-15: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc to close round (32 st)
Fasten off.

Start first bag flap:
Using Robin's Egg yarn, attach yarn 5 stitches back from where you fastened off.  **Because of the way that the rounds were worked, the starting point traveled a little.  Plus, it didn't even start out centered on the short ends anyway, so this is completely necessary.  I've provided pictures below to help you visualize this part.**
R1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 15 hdc (16 st)
R2-7: Ch 2 (does NOT count as first hdc), hdc across all st (16 st)
Fasten off.

Make second flap the same way you made the first one, only use the second set of 16 stitches.  ;D
Weave in all the ends.

Come back on Sunday and we'll put the lining and zipper in using the Knit-Picker!
If you'd like an advance list of supplies for the lining/zipper post, I applaud your dedication!
You'll need:
A fat quarter of a coordinating fabric (or material to make two 19" x 5.5" fabric strips)
Sewing thread
I used a sewing machine.  It would be possible to do the sewing by hand, but it would be laborious.
A zipper that can be cut down to 12.5"
A knit picker!

ed. 8/19/12: The two-parter has become a trilogy!  You can find Part Two HERE. And Part Three HERE.
xoxo