Lining the Tardis!

Today we're going to line the Tardis bag that we've been working on all week.  If, by some chance, you are not a super-huge Doctor Who fan and have chosen not to make a Tardis bag (gasp! the horror! LOL!!) stick around anyway, because this is how you line any flat-bottomed bag.  I am thrilled with how this turned out, and I know you're going to be too! Let's get started!

Supplies:

Lining fabric - 35" x 12 3/4" (I used white cotton)

Thread to match

Magnetic purse snaps (1 set)

Knit Picker

Yarn to match bag (leftovers!)

Yarn needle

White worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White)

Size F crochet hook

Scissors

Complete Purse-Sized Tardis Bag (without button hole) with Crossbody Strap

Fold fabric in half to make a 17 1/2" x 12 3/4" rectangle. Sew the two long sides closed using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Open bag and flatten bottom corners into triangles.  Measure across the triangles and mark your fabric where is measures 3" across.  Sew across the triangle at your mark.

Repeat for the other side.

Cut the extra tip of the triangle/corner off, leaving 1/4" seam allowance.

Turn the lining right side out.  Turn the completed Tardis Bag (without buttonhole) inside out.

Slide the Tardis bag inside the lining so that the wrong sides are together.  There will be a significant overhang of lining fabric. :D

Tuck the extra lining fabric in between the lining pouch and the outer crocheted bag.  You want to tuck it in so that the lining comes up to 1/8" or so from the top of the bag.  This makes a really nice, neat edge for the lining.

Get out your magnetic snaps.

We only need one set of snaps today, so get the pieces out of the package.

This is the hardest part of the whole thing.  You need to measure where to put the snaps into place and then (gasp!) cut your lining fabric for the snap prongs to go through.  My measurements were 13 3/8" in from the side seams and 1" down from the top edge of the lining.  Your measurements might be slightly different (although they'll be close!), because you really want to make sure that your snaps are centered.

Make 2 tiny snips in the top lining fabric (don't cut through both pieces! We need that folded-over behind/inner lining part to keep the snap tabs from poking through the crocheted outer bag).  Slide the 2 prongs of the snap through your tiny incisions.

Unfold the lining so that you can put the flat metal back on the snap.  Fold the tabs back so that the snap is attached to the fabric and the flat metal backing piece.  Re-fold the lining back into place.

Repeat on the other side.  Pretty cool, huh?

Now get out your leftover yarn scraps from when you crocheted the Tardis Bag.  Separate the yarn into halves.  It's just too thick to use the knit picker with (ahem, I know this from personal experience because I pulled the tip off of my knit picker trying to pull the 4-ply yarn through my double-thickness lining fabric.  Ooops!  So, after I got a replacement knit picker, I used 2-plies of the yarn and it worked perfectly without any snags or pulling or frustration.)

Using the same technique that we used to make the Ruffle-Butt Onesie, crochet the lining into the bag.

Once you get all the way around, you can weave the ends in to the outer crochet bag (so it doesn't show.  Don't try to weave them in to the knit picked edge on the inside.

This is what your bag should look like at this point.

You can turn it right-side-out now.

See, the snaps line up and everything!

I missed the light on the top of my bag, so I made a small light that I sewed to the top edge of the front of the bag.

Tardis Light
R1:Using white yarn and F crochet hook, make 6 sc in a magic loop, pull loop tight, sl st to first sc to close round (6 st)
R2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to close round (12 st)
R3: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to close round (12 st)
R4: ch 1, (sc next 2 st tog) 6 times, sl st to first sc to close round (6 st)
Fasten off.  Flatten the piece with your fingers.  Use tail end to tack the light together in several spots and then sew it to the top edge of the front of the bag.  Use the double center posts on the front as a guide to center the light.

I hope you have a wonderful weekend, Dynamos!  Now, go watch Doctor Who on your streaming Netflix!

xoxo

Tardis Bag - 3 versions - Part 1
Tardis Bag Straps - also 3 versions! - Part 2 

Tardis Bag Strap

Welcome back to some more Dr. Who fun!  We made the bag part of the Tardis Bag last Tuesday, so today I'm going to show you how I made the Tardis Bag Strap.   The top of the strap was made using a quasi-tapestry crochet technique where I carried the yarn across the back of the piece.  This makes the wrong side Uh-huh-huh-huh-gleeee (that's 'really super ugly' to those of you who don't speak Jaime gibberish)!  So that's why we've got second piece to cover the ugliness up.  And it makes the strap stronger and less prone to stretch all out of shape.

This is my first attempt at charts.  I made my charts going from the top down (row numbers down the sides), but on my large strap charts I also numbered the stitches across the top. Please don't let this confuse you.   I'm not going to re-do them, since this is a free pattern, but I would love to know, was I supposed to do the chart from the bottom up?  I made mine go from top down, because my blog posts scroll from the top down, and I thought it would be inconvenient and more confusing if I made them go from the bottom up.  But now I don't know.

I made 3 different straps.  I made a big strap for the LCB version that looks exactly like the Tardis, and I made a thinner strap that looks a little less authentic, but is more appropriately sized for the smaller purse-sized bag in both a shoulder bag size and a longer crossbody size.  If you want, you can ditch the charts and just make a plain black strap for either of the bags, and I think they would still look really cool.

**IMPORTANT:  All charts are worked in single crochet.  Carry the yarn on the back of the piece, since we're going to cover all the loose threads up.  You can cut the white yarn between charts to keep the white from pulling weirdly on the piece from the back.  It's going to look wonky up close, so if you are working on the strap and think that it's turning out horrible, go get an iced tea, and take a break from it.  When you come back, look at it from across the room.  It will look much better.**

Tardis LCB Strap - front
approx 35" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

using Black ch 14
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (13 st)
R2-3: ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R4-32: work LCB CHART A (13 st)
R33-35: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R36-56: work LCB CHART B (13 st)
R57-59: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
R60-82: work LCB CHART C (13 st)
R83-85: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (13 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

LCB CHART A

LCB CHART B

LCB CHART C

Tardis LCB Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 14

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (14 st)

R2-85: ch 1, sc in each st across (14 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Shoulder Strap- Front 

approx 35" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

using Black ch 6
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)
R2-5: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R6-31: work CHART A (5 st)
R32-36: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R37-57: work CHART B (5 st)
R58-62: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R63-77: work CHART C (5 st)
R78-82: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R83-95: work CHART D (5 st)
R96-100: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

CHART A

CHART B

CHART C

CHART D

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Shoulder Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 6

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)

R2-100: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Crossbody Strap - Front

approx 45" long
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in Black and White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in black and white)
Size G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors


using Black ch 6
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)
R2-30: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R31-51: work CHART A (5 st)
R52-56: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R57-77: work CHART B (5 st)
R78-82: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R83-97: work CHART C (5 st)
R98-102: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
R103-115: work CHART D (5 st)
R116-145: using black, ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Tardis Bag (Purse-Sized) Crossbody Strap - Back

Using Black, ch 6

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch space across (5 st)

R2-145: ch 1, sc in each st across (5 st)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Finishing strap:

Match front and back pieces with wrong sides together (to cover up all the loose threads!).  Pin in place. 

Using Black yarn, sc the 2 straps together along one of the long sides, using 1 stitch for each row.  Fasten off.  Repeat along the other long side.  

Center the strap along the top sides of the Main Bag (use the side seam as a guideline for centering the strap). Whipstitch the edge of the strap to the edge of the bag.  Repeat on the other side. Weave in ends.

Okay, so for those of you who are making the unlined button-closure versions, you are now done!  Yippee!  For the rest of you, you fabric-lining darlings, I will see you on Saturday!  Bring a lining fabric (I'm going to use white cotton!) and your knit pickers.  

xoxo

The Tardis Bag - A love story in 3 parts

My friend Kendra sent me the most wonderful picture a couple of weeks ago:

As a longtime Dr. Who fan, I totally freaked out.  She had turned the London Crochet Bag into a Tardis!  I emailed her and pretty much demanded that she tell me what she did so that I could make one myself (LOL!) and so that I could share the pattern with you!  And being the sweetheart that she is, she sent me her pattern.

I, of course, made one and loved it!  My only issue was that I wanted to be able to carry it as a purse, but the LCB (if you've made the bag you'll know) is kinda huge for every-day use.  So I've made a smaller version as well.  (Either one would make an excellent trick-or-treat bag...)

This is my version of Kendra's bag!

Only, I got it in my head that I wanted to line the bag, so I've given you the option of making it with a button, or with a magnetic snap closure.  Whew!  So, that's why this love story is broken into 3 parts.  Today I'm giving you the patterns for the Main Bag (Original LCB size - pattern by Kendra Harris, Purse Size with Button, and Purse Size with lining).  In the next post, I'll give you the pattern for the strap, and then in the last post I'll be doing the lining instructions (including some fun with the knit picker!).

 And, as the Tenth Doctor said (in Fear Her), “There’s a lot of things you need to get across this universe. Warp drive… wormhole refractors… You know the thing you need most of all? You need some yarn to hold.” **

**I may have mis-quoted here... It was really 'You need a hand to hold' but that didn't make my argument very well, did it?

Abbreviations used:
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
ch - chain
hdc - half-double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Tardis LCB 
pattern modification by Kendra Harris

Supplies:
Blue Worsted Weight Yarn ( I used Caron One Pound 100% acrylic in Royalty, but you could also use Red Heart Super Saver in Royal)
Size G hook
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in White and Black (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White and Black)

ch 61
R1-51: Follow normal pattern for the London Crochet Bag
R52: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch sp, (2 fpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 fpdc, hdc in each ch space across (60 st)
R53: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 bpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R54-61: Repeat R52-53 4 more times
R62: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R63: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R64: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 fpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R65: ch 1, 10 hdc, (2 bpdc, 17 hdc) 2 times, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R66-73:  Repeat R64-65 4 more times
R74: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R75: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R76: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R77: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R78: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R79: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (5 hdc, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (5 hdc, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R80:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R81: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, bpdc) 3 times, bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R82:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, (change to white, 5 hdc, change to blue, fpdc) 3 times, fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R83:  ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, 34 hdc, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R84: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R85: ch 1, 10 hdc, 40 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R86: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, change to black, 36 hdc, change to blue, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R87: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, change to black, 14 hdc, ch 8, skip 8 st, 14 hdc, change to blue, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R88: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 fpdc, change to black, 14 hdc, 8 hdc in the ch space, 14 hdc, change to blue, 2 fpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R89: ch 1, 10 hdc, 2 bpdc, 36 hdc, 2 bpdc, 10 hdc (60 st)
R90: ch 1, 60 hdc (60 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Sew side seams together following the instructions for the original London Crochet Bag.

Make Button following original London Crochet Bag instructions using white yarn.  Using buttonhole as a guide, center and sew on button.

There was a lot of confusion with the original London Crochet Bag about Row 51.  I took pictures as I did R51 on this bag, so that you can see exactly what I'm talking about.  I'm left handed, so for you righties, imagine the stitches in the 3rd picture on the other side... :D

This is where we leave off on R50

ch 10 (actually this one is for the smaller sized bag, so it's a 5 ch, but you get the idea)

hdc across all stitches of R50...

And then more chain stitches on the other side!
Now you're all set for R52 with 61 stitches on your row!
(Or in the case of this picture, 41)

And now, for the smaller, Purse-Sized Tardis patterns!

The Purse-Sized Tardis Bag with Button...
It's bigger on the inside...

Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Button
Approx. size: 11" tall x 8 1/2" wide x 3" deep
Supplies:
Blue Worsted Weight Yarn ( I used Caron One Pound 100% acrylic in Royalty, which will make two purse sized bags from one skein.  It's a little 'slubby' but if you don't mind the lumps every once in a while, the price is right.  Otherwise, use a royal blue in Red Heart Super Saver.)
Size F hook
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in White and Black (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White and Black)

With Blue ch 41
R1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across (40 st)
R2-30: ch 1, hdc in each st across (40 st)
R31: sl st in next 5 st, ch 1, 30 hdc, ch 1, turn (you're going to skip the last 5 st of the row) (30 st)
R32: hdc in each st across (30 st)
R33-35: ch 1, hdc in each st across (30 st)
Fasten off.

R36: With new piece of yarn, ch 5, 30 hdc across all st of R35, ch 6 (41 st)
R37: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch, 2 hdc, 26 bpdc, 2 hdc, hdc in each ch (40 st)
R38: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R39: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R40: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R41: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R42: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R43: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R44: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R45: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R46: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R47: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R48: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R49: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R50: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, 11 hdc, 2 bpdc, 11 hdc, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R51: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 11 hdc, 2 fpdc, 11 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R52: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R53: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R54: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R55: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (3 hdc, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (3 hdc, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R56: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R57: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 2 fpdc, (change to white, 3 hdc, change to blue, fpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R58: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, (3 hdc, bpdc,) 3 times, 2 bpdc, (3 hdc, bpdc,) 3 times, 7 hdc (40 st)
R59: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R60: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R61: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R62: ch 1, 7 hdc, bpdc, change to black, 24 hdc, change to blue, bpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R63: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 10 hdc, ch 4, skip 4 st, 10 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R64: ch 1, 7 hdc, 11 fpdc, 4 hdc in ch space, 11 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R65: ch 1, hdc across all st (40 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Using the original London Crochet Bag as a guideline, sew the sides together.


Button
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn in White (I used Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic in White)
Size F crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors

R1: 7 sc in magic loop, pull loop tight, sl st to first st to close round (7 st)
R2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first st to close round (14 st)
R3: ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (21 st)
R4: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first st to close round (21 st)
R5: ch 1, (sc next 2 st tog, sc) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (14 st)
R6: ch 1, (sc next 2 st tog) 7 times, sl st to first st to close round (7 st)
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Using buttonhole as a guide, center and sew on button.

Purse-Sized Tardis Bag, ready to be sewn together and lined!!

Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Lining
Follow all of the instructions from the Tardis Bag - Purse Sized with Button, but replace R63-64 with these instructions:
R63: ch 1, 7 hdc, fpdc, 24 hdc, fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)
R64: ch 1, 7 hdc, 26 fpdc, 7 hdc (40 st)

Oh yeah, and don't make the button if you're making this bag, we'll be doing something else...


Whew! Come back on Thursday and we'll make the Police Public Call Box Strap!  It's gonna be awesome!!

And, for all of you following at home, the Captcha is off for the next week!  Let's see what happens!  Fun experiments for everyone!  And double Dynamo points for a heads-up if something spammy or offensive gets posted.  I'll pull it as soon as I see it.

xoxo

Lady Luck

I found some fun dice beads that I thought would make awesome rings.  I think they're really fun, and a playful twist on the chunky ring trend that's so hot right now.  You're gonna need these lucky beauties, since you never know when a spontaneous road-trip will end in Vegas...

Lady Luck Cocktail Ring

Fits a ring size 7, but will stretch for larger sizes
Supplies:
7 plastic dice beads
.5mm Silver elastic beading cord
Size D crochet hook
Scissors

Load all of your beads onto the elastic.

R1: ch 4, sl st to first ch to close round.
R2: slide a bead up and sc through the center of the ch 4 circle.  Repeat until all of the beads have been used. Sl st into the first sc to close the round. (7 st)
R2: chain 20 (add more stitches for a larger ring, leave some off for a smaller ring).  Sl st to the 2nd ch of R1 (or whatever stitch is on the opposite side of R1 from the chain).  Fasten off.  Weave in ends (which there isn't much space to do, I just tied it in a surgeons knot and used my crochet hook to weave it between the beads a little.) Snip off any extra elastic.

And don't forget to send me a postcard from Vegas!

xoxo

9/14/12 edit: You know, it has occurred to me that these would also be good for a Yahtzee party... you know, if Vegas wasn't your thing... :D
xo J

Project Runway

Hi Dynamos!  I know I usually post every other day, but I was watching the latest episode of Project Runway on Hulu last night and I almost freaked out when I saw what Heidi Klum was wearing.  No, not her dress.  Her ring!

Okay, it's not a crocheted ring, but it was chunky and pearly and looked so similar to the ones I made yesterday that I just needed to share.  I consider this solid evidence that we are on trend, people!

So, go Dynamos, and Make It Work!

xoxo

Playing Dress Up

When I was little, my mom used to have a dress-up box for us to play with.  It had some old formal gowns that she had worn in college, and some costume jewelry.  My favorite piece of jewelry was this glamorous beaded ring.  It had jet black beads and a band of stretchy gold.  I am pretty sure I never let my sister wear it.  I loved it so much.

Click HERE for the Boutique Ring pattern

I was probably in high school before I realized that the ring had been crocheted.  I haven't thought about it in years, but the other day I had a dream about it.  I woke up wondering if I could find a pattern for a 60s-70s crochet beaded ring.  Google Image Search to the rescue!  I found exactly what I was looking for here.

6mm glass pearl beads and .5mm silver elastic cord

After I made a handful of rings (aha! no pun intended) I was talking to my dad about them, asking him if he remembered mom's glamorous beaded ring.  He did remember her beaded ring, but he remembered another one she had that was red, white and blue.  Apparently she had worn it out to dinner one night, back when they were still dating.  He noticed it, and asked if he could look at it.  She handed the ring over to him to inspect.  He looked at it and frowned slightly, and then took another ring out of his pocket and said that she should wear that one instead.  It was an engagement ring.

I knew that my parents had gotten engaged at a restaurant, but I had no idea that a crochet ring was involved!  Now I'm extra excited about my rings!

I got really excited about the rings, so I experimented with some other beads to see what other looks I could achieve.  The glass chip rings turned out awesome!  They were also sooooo big!  I ended up leaving rows 5-6 off and only using 15 beads for these rings.  They are very bold.  My inner 5 year-old adores them.

I will say that the big, 70s style cocktail ring is quite a statement piece.  I am not entirely sure how many glamorous events that I will be wearing mine to, although I am thinking that they will be playing a large part in any princess-themed birthday parties I throw, as well as any upcoming bachelorette parties.  Well worth keeping in my crochet arsenal.

I do like chunky rings, though, so I've updated the idea.  I wanted something a little smaller, and more of a fun, everyday piece.  It's still chunky, but totally wearable (in fact, I wore one today!), and dead simple to make.  The hardest part (by far) is getting the beads on the elastic.  After that, it's a piece of cake.

Again, I used the glass beads, which make me think of sea-glass (ooh! Sea glass would be awesome for this ring!).  I liked that they weren't perfectly round, or perfectly perfect.  I think it made the ring look more modern.  You can make your ring to whatever design aesthetic your heart desires, though.

The Updated Crochet Cocktail Ring
Fits a ring size 7, but will stretch for larger sizes
Supplies:
5 beads (I used Seabreeze Mix Cracked Glass Large Chips, but any 6mm bead will work)
.5mm Silver elastic beading cord (I got a giant spool for $6.  I've made 10 rings so far, and it doesn't look like I've even made a dent in it... if you were wondering...)
Size D crochet hook
Tapestry needle (optional-ish)
Bead Reamer (optional-ish)
Scissors

Load all of your beads onto the elastic.  This is, by far, the hardest part.  **I ended up putting the elastic through the eye of a tapestry needle and using that to thread the beads on.  It was not easy.  If the hole in your beads is super small, like mine were, another option would be to use a bead reamer and open the hole up a little larger.  If I could have found my reamer last night, that's what I would have done/what I will do in the future**

R1: Get a magic loop ready, leaving a tail of 12-18" of elastic at the end.  Ch 2 at the start of the magic loop to get it started.  Slide a bead up and sc into the loop.  Repeat until all of the beads have been used. Sl st into the first sc to close the round.  Pull the loop tight. (5 st)
R2:Using the magic loop tail AND the working thread, chain 20 (add more stitches for a larger ring, leave some off for a smaller ring).  Sl st to the 3rd sc of R1 (or whatever stitch is on the opposite side of R1 from the chain).  Fasten off.  Weave in ends (which there isn't much space to do, I just tied it in a surgeons knot and used my crochet hook to weave it between the beads a little.) Snip off any extra elastic.  Admire your awesome new ring!

If you're going to make a bunch of rings, I highly recommend loading all of the beads on the elastic at once.  I cannot emphasize enough that loading the beads is the hardest part, so if you get that done right at the start, the rest of the project will be fun.  Maximizing fun is what we're all about here at Crochet Dynamite, so heed my cautions!!!

xoxo

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